Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Durian for Dummies

First off, let me clarify that it's us (Kris and I) who are the 'dummies' here. Although this isn't the first time we've tried
durian, it's the first whole durian that we've ever brought home (which is nothing short of a miracle given that a few years ago Kris wouldn't even let me come near him after I ate durian flavor ice cream). And though I'm no stranger to consuming weird food, I've always been intimidated by the durian's seemingly impenetrable shell. So what made Kris finally welcome this notoriously stinky fruit into our house? His highly competitive nature, of course!

We've been having so much fun coming up with entries for
Tangled Noodle and Savor the Thyme's Eating Your Words Challenge that we decided to enter AGAIN. Yeah, I know...obnoxious, right? But you have to understand how big a fan I am of the celebrity guest judge, Andrew Zimmern from Bizarre Foods! I mean he's like my IDOL (hey, did I mention that it's Weird Food Wednesday?!) Plus there are no restrictions (at least not currently) as to how many times we can enter. And like any other competition, Kris really wants to win (remember when we ate a record breaking amount of ice cream for the Ice Cream Social last year because Kris thought it was an all-you-can-eat competition?) Maybe they'll be a prize for the person who submits the most entries (LOL).

I wanted to tailor this submission specificially for Zimmern, so I started brainstorming about what I could make with bizarre foods...
maybe spell C-R-U-N-C-H-Y with crickets? Write A-W-F-U-L with offal? But I didn't necessarily want it to be a gross-out kind of thing. Once again, my brilliant hubby came to the rescue - "Let's do something with durian!" Ah...the durian, otherwise known as the 'King of Fruit'. How's the
one thing Andrew Zimmern has not been able to stomach (this from the guy who's eaten moose nose jelly and giant beetle larvae with relative ease). An entry showcasing durian, Zimmern's evil archnemesis, is bound to get his attention!

After several rounds of hi-fiving my husband, reality set in. I've never made anything with durian before, let alone even know how to open one! Kris suggested we hit it with an ax and if that doesn't work he'll take out the chainsaw. Luckily my parents, lifelong durian enthusiasts, were only a phone call away. My mom was pretty excited at the prospect of her only daughter buying her very first durian (awww...) but said to call back after we'd purchased a frozen one. "Frozen?! How many days does it take to thaw?" "Only a couple," replied my mom," but make sure you put it by the heater." Hmmm... this posed yet another problem - the thought of keeping a smelly durian inside the house while it thaws is Kris' worst nightmare. Luckily the spirit of competition prevailed and we set out to get a frozen durian from the local Asian food market.

When we got to the market, I didn't know the first thing about picking a durian so I chose a medium size specimen that had a tiny little crack in it. I figure that the split would be a good starting point for opening it.

Here's our 6 lb baby, thawing out in our sunroom (oh man, will my sunroom forever smell like durian?):

There are several varieties of durian but according to my dad, most of the ones you'll find in North America have been imported from Thailand, and have been bred to produce a smaller seed-to-flesh ratio. This durian is the Morn Thong (a.k.a. golden pillow or butter almond) variety from Thailand:

When I called my parents to give them a progress report, my dad immediately asked about the shape of the durian. He says that when selecting a durian, he ignores the symmetrical-looking specimens and always picks one that is bulging out on one side (a sign that there's a large pod of durian meat inside). My durian was clearly protruding out in one area - woohoo! My dad said that section will undoubtedly contain the largest pod with the sweetest meat (he was right). He also asked whether the durian still looked 'fresh' - was there still a slight tinge of green on the shell? Were the spikes and stem intact and in good condition? Yes and yes (although you'll notice some busted spikes in my photo but those injuries were sustained while rolling around in our trunk during the drive home). Then my mom got on the phone to ask whether the skin had "any visible cracks in it?" Yes again! (I guess this means I'm a 'natural' at selecting durian). My mom says you should always look for one with a small crack because it means the durian ripened successfully before it was frozen, but never pick one that has splits all over because it means it's probably past its prime.

Over the next couple days, the skin between the spikes became more supple and the odor intensified. This is a good sign according to my father - a durian that doesn't stink is most certainly a dud. To me, the ripening durian smelled wonderfully sweet and tropical, reminding me of Malaysia. To Kris, it smelled like rotting fruit but at least he wasn't disgusted about it (yet).

By the second day, hairline cracks were beginning to appear in the shell, so I gently helped them along by applying gentle pressure with my fingernail from the stem to the base. See how the cracks have formed a star-like pattern on the base?

And I couldn't resist prying open one of the cracks and deeply inhaling the fragrance within (Kris referred to it as the 'evil within', saying it looked like some kind of alien creature inside):


Kris in his durian protective wear:

Gently pulling the sections apart with his bare hands:

The durian flesh easily fell out of the pods, but Kris used a spoon because he didn't want to touch the 'alien babies' with his bare hands:

Here's that sweet luscious piece my dad was talking about:

The seed separates easily from the soft creamy pulp:

As I was rolling up my sleeves to dig in, Kris quickly disappeared to another part of the house to hide out. The odor had reached an unbearable level for him so he was steering clear of the kitchen until I was done with my experimentation.

After polishing off that choice piece of durian (buttery, creamy, could anyone not enjoy something known as the 'butter almond'?), I set a few fleshy segments aside for my contest entry, but the remainder went into a plastic storage container, which I then sealed inside 2 heavy-duty freezer bags before placing it inside another storage container. For some additional insurance, I surrounded the container with several boxes of baking soda before placing it inside my basement mini-fridge.

To dispose of the durian shell, I wrapped it up in newspaper, tied it up in several layers of plastic grocery bags and put it outside in a tightly covered garbage can. Odor contained!

My next challenge was to make something palatable enough to convince Mr. Zimmern to give durian another try. In Vancouver last year, I tried a delicious durian sticky rice from
Phnom Penh (a local Cambodian restaurant and popular foodie destination). Sticky rice was mixed with tiny pieces of durian, topped with quivering spoonfuls of luscious durian pudding and then smothered in rich coconut milk. Even Kris admited that the taste was "tolerable".

So with that dessert as my inspiration...this is what I came up with...

Black Sticky Rice Pudding with Durian Custard & Durian Cookie Letters:
A dessert for durian haters (and the uninitiated)

Every component of this dessert has some form of durian in it. The rice pudding and the custard contain pureed fresh durian. The cookies have been flavored with ground durian chips and durian extract. Coconut milk and pandan essence are perfect complements, calming the intense flavor of durian. And the unmilled black glutinous rice provides a chewy and colorful contrast to the golden pillowy custard, while the cookies add a nice crunch. You can find all of the specialty ingredients (including the durian) at your local Asian food market. I hope you'll try it :)

Durian Custard

3/4 cup evaporated milk
1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk
3/4 cup canned coconut milk (stir can to mix the heavier cream with the thinner liquid underneath)
3/4 cup fresh durian pulp
1 egg
3 egg yolks
2 1/2 Tbsps superfine sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Boil water for the bain-marie/water bath.

Puree durian pulp with coconut milk in a food processor. Set aside, reserving 1/4 cup of the resulting puree for the black sticky rice pudding.

Beat egg yolks and egg. Add in evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, sugar, and durian puree. Whisk till blended. Strain custard mixture by pouring through a fine-mesh sieve into another bowl.

Set up water bath - I placed a 1 quart-sized oval Corningware dish inside a rectangular 9 x 13 glass casserole. Pour custard into the inner baking dish. Cover custard tightly with aluminum foil. Carefully pour hot water into the outer casserole until it reaches halfway up the inner baking dish.

Bake at 350 degrees F for 45- 50 minutes until the middle is set (will still wiggle slightly). Let cool.

To serve, use a large serving spoon to carefully scoop up generous slices of custard. Serve over black sticky rice pudding or enjoy on its own!

Black Sticky Rice Pudding

1 cup black glutinous rice*
1 3/4 cups water, plus water for soaking rice
1 cup light coconut milk
1/4 cup white sugar
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1 tsp pandan extract
pinch of salt
1/4 cup of reserved durian/coconut milk puree (from custard recipe above)

Pick through rice to remove any tiny pebbles. Wash rice a couple times to remove grit and loose husks. Soak rice for 8 hours (helps to plump it up).

Drain rice and add to a saucepan with 1 3/4 cups of water. Bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer and cover. Cook for 35-45 minutes until water is absorbed and rice is cooked through (will retain a chewy texture). Alternatively you can use a rice cooker with the same proportion of rice to water.

In another saucepan, combine light coconut milk, white sugar, brown sugar, pandan extract, salt and durian/coconut milk puree. Bring to a boil and reduce heat immediately. Stir in cooked sticky rice. Simmer at low heat, stirring frequently until most of the liquid has been absorbed. The sticky rice pudding can be served warm or cold.

*Note: make sure you use black glutinous rice and not 'forbidden rice' or black Chinese rice (neither are glutinous)

Durian Letter Cookies

I was initially planning on making durian icing to write my letters. But Kris came across a bag of durian chips at the Asian food market and suggested I grind them up and make cookies out of them.

Imagine our surprise when we tasted them - no smell or durian flavor whatsoever and they weren't even sweet!

The bag listed only 3 ingredients - durian (97.5%), salt and vegetable oil, so despite the lack of pungency, these chips were legit. Don't get me wrong, the durian chips were quite delicious, even addictive, reminding us of taro or cassava chips. But to make up for the lack of flavor, I threw in some durian extract. And yes, I cheated a bit with packaged cookie dough - I just didn't see the point in making an entire batch of dough and wasting a ton of flour and butter to make a few letters.

5 oz of refrigerated sugar cookie dough (about 1/3rd of a package)
1 oz (a large handful) of durian chips
1/2 tsp of durian extract
1 -2 Tbsp water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.

Process durian chips in a food processor till finely ground.

Knead the ground durian chips into the sugar cookie dough until well incorporated. Add in durian extract and knead some more till evenly distributed. The dough should be getting soft at this point. Transfer dough to a small bowl and add in 1-2 tablespoons of water, continuing to knead until it becomes soft enough for piping.

Place dough into a quart sized storage bag (use a good quality freezer bag so the sides don't burst when piping). Snip a tiny hole in the corner (no icing tip needed, just a steady hand) and pipe thin letters on to the parchment lined cookie sheet. Bake at 350 degrees F for 3-4 minutes until done (watch them carefully, they go from being uncooked to being burnt very quickly).

Use letters to decorate your sticky rice. Alternatively, you could bake these up as tuiles (thin crisp cookies) and tuck them into your dessert.

So after all of this, has Kris finally become a durian convert?

Sadly, no.

He claims that he's too emotionally scarred from his first few encounters to ever enjoy it. The smell alone psychs him out and he can't seem to get past it.

However, I still consider this a personal victory because Kris was able to eat a few spoonfuls of the dessert without retching. He says this dessert is a good place to start for beginners ("start with the cookie..then try the sticky rice, and finally the custard"). And the next thing you know, you'll graduate to eating the real fruit. So Mr. Zimmern, won't you give durian another try?

And just in case anyone was wondering, 5 baking soda boxes were no match for the formidable durian. Over a 24 hour period, the smell inevitably crept out, layer by layer, until it had completely commandeered my poor little mini-fridge!

4/08/10 Update: Well, we didn't win (no regrets, I'm still glad we opened our first durian), but our other entry, Spelling with Sushi, got an honorable mention! Be sure to check out Part I and Part II of the challenge roundup, as well as the winning entry here.



Tangled Noodle said...

You guys have truly outdone yourselves! I was laughing so hard throughout this post and nearly lost it entirely with that shot of Kris in his hazmat outfit. I'm sorry but your husband is right: it DOES look like alien babies!

The end result looks might tempting, though; sticky rice is my weakness and I'd be willing to overlook anything, even durian, for bowlful of the stuff. Thanks for another great entry! 8-)

Chow and Chatter said...

this is the coolest post ever and man the smell wow brave people love it

KennyT said...

did you drink coke after eating the durian? burp

Heavenly Housewife said...

Phyllis this is like my favourite post evaaaaaa! I love it, and I love what you made (but i'm not sure if i would eat it, but okay, yeah, I'd try it, you'd just have to have a glass of water near by LOL). This post was so funny, and that pic of kris was hilarious. Great finished product, even if it is made with genuine alien babies. I'll tell u one thing, if you dont win, I am going to make my own award for you. I'm going to call it "The Golden Durian Award" :D.
*kisses* HH

Phyllis said...

Tangled Noodle: We had SO much fun with this. But I have to admit we were kinda nervous when we first brought our 'alien baby' home. Before this, I was still 'on the fence' about durian. And would we be kicking ourselves afterwards if our house forever reeked of durian?! But I actually got used to the smell during the thawing out period and really fell in love with the sweet creamy fruit (my parents are so proud). And happy to report that the house no longer smells like durian! I hope you'll give it a chance :)

Chow and Chatter: Hey Rebecca, thanks so much! Durian is really not that bad, you just have to get past the smell. The taste is worth it!

KennyT: coke/durian combo supposed to help digestion or help cool you down afterwards? Because I had no adverse reactions, no burping or overheating. Apparently my body is a durian-eating machine (lol). Or is it one of those combinations that's supposed to be lethal or cause your stomach to explode - like that cola/mentos urban myth?!

Heavenly Housewife: LOL! I would be honored to be the first recipient of the Golden Durian Award! And that ridiculous outfit is also what Kris wears when doing home improvement (minus my flowery apron, of course) He's all about safety first!

foodhoe said...

you guys are my heroes! I love the photo of Kris in the hazmat gear. I've never seen a durian being dismantled before, it really separates like that without a chainsaw? Very interesting. Your final products look wonderful, I'd definitely have to try the custard. Good luck, you guys rock!

Phyllis said...

foodhoe: Thanks :) My husband was soooo looking forward to axing that thing open. He also had his powertools on standby. Quite shocking how it just came apart so easily. Can't wait to buy my next one!

Carolyn Jung said...

I love the durian haz-mat gear!! Too funny!

Phyllis said...

Carolyn: My poor hubby had been living with that smell for 2 days. He wasn't taking any chances just in case it exploded or something! :)

Anonymous said...

This is awesome Phyllis! I loved reading the post and would love to taste this dessert - I'm not afraid :) If I were the Andrew Zimmern, I would totally choose this as a winner for sure!

AnnieZ said...

Kudos to your Kris for dealing with the big D! Having grown up eating durian, I only think of the scent as well...durian. Yeah, it's such a strong smell, but to me it smells wonderful. My mom tells me that people have to wear hard hats when harvesting the durian. That fruit dropping from the tree will kill ya! Congrats on your results and hope Andrew Z likes durian better for it :)

Caroline said...

you guys need an award just for tackling durian. I'm not sure I can bring a durian home, my kids won't be able to stand the smell (but they've tried durian pudding before & they liked it!)

Justin said...

very, very bold... i'm scared just looking at the photos

Phyllis said...

5 Star Foodie: WOOHOO!! I think you're the first to volunteer! And your 'Yes We Have No Bananas' entry wasn't too shabby either ;)

AnnieZ: Thanks for visiting, so nice to hear from another durian lover! And yes, durian trees are dangerous, my dad said never to fall asleep underneath a durian tree :)

Justin: Oh come know you wanna try it (LOL)

Phyllis said...

Caroline: Oops, sorry... missed you in the previous impressed that your kids like durian pudding! If you ever decide to bring a frozen one home, probably best to do it in the cooler months, then the smell won't be too bad (you get used to it because it thaws gradually).

Veeda said...

oh, the "alien babies" description just killed me. So funny! You are so, so very brave. Bravo, I love this!

Chef E said...

This really made me laugh, especially your husband in that mask!

Great post!

Phyllis said...

Veeda: Thanks :) Not really so brave, I think my love for durian might be a genetic thing! And your 'cake for dinner' entry for eating your words was awesome!!

Chef E: Yes, my husband is a riot to have around ;) Thanks so much for visiting!

Kathleen said...

Wow. I think you are both very brave to bring something so stinky into your kitchen! Great post

Ciao Chow Linda said...

So nice being on the panel with you tonight at the library. The only time I ate durian was in Singapore. I didn't realize you could buy durian around here.

Phyllis said...

Kathleen: Kris was brave, I was excited! Those chocolate oatmeal bars on your blog look scrumptious. Thanks so much for stopping by :)

Linda: I had such a fun time on the library panel with you too :) Thanks for all the fab Italian recipes. So cool you've tried durian before, you are one of the few! You can usually find frozen durian at Asian markets, check in the produce section.

Daily Spud said...

I have never been brave enough to try durian, though if anything could persuade me, it would be this post! I mean, if Kris can brave it, then surely I can give it a whirl :)

Phyllis said...

Daily Spud: I hope you do try it one day, it's really not too bad once you get past the smell! I didn't give durian much of a chance for so many years solely based on its bad reputation, only to find out now that I love it!

Victor said...

Wow, awesome review. I had durian when I was in asia and it was interesting. I've heard from many that durian tastes 100x better fresh from growers, as opposed to from the grocery store.

Phyllis said...

Victor: I haven't tried durian in Asia yet (foiled by hotel security), but based on my experience with fresh mangosteen and jackfruit, I'm sure what you are saying is true and that frozen durian pales in comparison to a fresh specimen from the growers. Thanks for dropping by :)

gastroanthropologist said...

love Kris's protective gear. gosh why does it have to stink so bad?

Betty said...

funny u had to wear a mask but it isnt a very pleasnt smell but i love eating it especially in cakes or desserts yummy, love everything you did here you're very creative :O)

Phyllis said...

Betty: Hubby just wore the mask to be dramatic, he'd been living with the smell for a couple days already! And now that I know I actually like durian I'm looking forward to trying it in more desserts.

Robert Nodge said...

Hi Phyllis, I wrote you before regarding durian. Every time I go to one of a few Asian markets here, I grab a good 5-6 pound frozen durian. It has become my all time favorite fruit. Lychee is a close second. It takes a good 8-10 hours or overnight to thaw. I slice it open and just use my bare hands to get the meat out of the pods. For some reason, I do not mind the scent. I actually wish I can find durian cologne or air fleshner. :) I may not get a date but at least I will have an exotic scent on me. That black sweet rice you have pictured looks good. I like anything with coconut in it as well. In a Vietnamese tofu shop here, you can find durian rice. Its a little dry but with a little water added, it is tasty. Try to suprise Kris one day by making him a durian cake. I have had one that someone made and it was heavenly.

ruth leader said...

I absolutely love durian as I grew up in Thailand